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And soda bread never lost its magical power to aid the Irish, even two centuries later. It seems that Mary O’Halloran’s bar on Avenue A, Mary O’s, had to shut down due to the pandemic in 2021.

This could not be easier. Begin by placing the dry ingredients in a large roomy bowl, mix to combine, then add the buttermilk followed by the water. Start mixing; first with a spatula then finish off ...